Confession: we’d never actually visited Mallorca before arriving there 9 years ago to run a luxury, boutique hotel. One of the things we needed to do quickly was to have a readily available and meaningful list of places to visit for our guests.
People love islanders’ insights into secret beaches, lesser known trails and the best markets. These recommendations were high in value because they could make or break a day on a well-earned holiday: no pressure.
The temptation was to play it safe and trot out tried and tested suggestions. By scouting around myself, I stumbled upon some lesser known places that took me by surprise. Here are a few of them.
1.Santa Catalina
There are some capital cities that are just more manageable than others and benefit from being close to the sea. Palma is one of them. Lisbon is another. I get the same feeling of openness in both places in a physical sense.
Palma’s old centre is compact. Trendy districts like Santa Catalina and El Terreno fan off in whichever direction you walk.
Santa Catalina boasts a wonderful market, packed to the gills with fresh fish, fruit and vegetables and little tapas stalls. Take your fish or meat purchases to Bar Es Mercat. They’ll grill it for a small fee so that you’re free to enjoy it over with a glass of chilled white wine.
At night, the area comes alive with a young, hip crowd who pack the independently run bars and restaurants. Check out Duke Restaurant with its surfy ambience and wonderful food.
2.Portixol
There’s something almost Californian about the waterfront a few hundred metres below the old town. This is where the beautiful people jog or take a weekend stroll next to the Mediterranean’s glistening blue waters.
If you continue walking east along the seafront, you’ll hit Portixol before long. This place looks like a pretty little fishing village which is exactly what it once was. There’s something very pleasing about being able to walk from a busy city centre and step into what feels like another world within seconds.
Charming former fishermen’s cottages that face the harbour are now more millionaire’s row. Portixol is no longer up and coming, it’s one of the coolest and most expensive places to live in Mallorca and yet it’s managed to retain a bit of a boho vibe.
There’s a lovely promenade to walk along, a small sheltered beach and lots of cool bars and restaurants. You might see the odd surfer too.
3.Molinar
Portixol blends seamlessly into the next former fishing village, Molinar. Again, there’s no mass tourism here, just more pedestrianised boulevards, sandy beaches and crashing waves. Portixol and Molinar ooze café culture. You could sit in either place for hours watching the world go by.
Visit in June for the Nit del Foc or Night of Fire. The celebrations get going on the eve of the San Joan Fiesta. These are when some of the island’s biggest parties happen. The beaches in Portixol and Molinar are lit up with candles and tea lights. Families and friends gather here for picnics on this long midsummer evening.
4.Cabrera Island
This is a place to get away from it all. Cabrera Island is a national park, an hour’s journey by boat from ‘mainland’ Mallorca. It’s part of an archipelago of a dozen or so islands around 15 km off Mallorca’s southeast tip.
The island has been relatively untouched for centuries. Seabirds including cormorants, shearwaters, falcons and ospreys have chosen to set up home here. You’ll see dolphins playing off its shores and find lots of indigenous flora and fauna to identify. Little wonder the locals decided to protect the island from mass tourism.
An Escape Back to Nature
Don’t let the island’s rather arid, dessert-like appearance put you off. Let the lizards that will dart across your path captivate you. Crystal clear blue waters mean you’ll see shoals of fish that almost brush up against you when you take a dip.
The fort and fishing museum are within easy walking distance. For a bit of adventure, take the hike to the island’s 19th-century red and white lighthouse, L’Enciola. This takes a good four hours from the harbour.
Stay Overnight
It’s possible to stay overnight in hostel-style accommodation that was once an army barracks. There’s something wonderfully remote about the whole experience.
It’s all a stark contrast to the lively resorts Cala D’Or and Colonia Sant Jordi you’ll have left behind. Let the sound of the breeze through the trees lull you to sleep and wake up to birdsong that’s louder than traffic on a busy street.
5.The Cycle Ride from Alcúdia to Campanet
I must have driven past Campanet hundreds of times on my way to Alcúdia from Palma. I started cycling with an eclectic bunch of Mallorcan chums last year. It was then that I discovered that the back roads that link Campanet to the Bay of Pollensa are a match for any on the island on the prettiness scale.
This is a route to get totally mindful of everything around you. You’ll see the bubbling brooks that criss cross the country roads and hear bells clanging around the necks of meandering sheep.
Time it at the right time of year and take in the sweet smell of the almond blossom. Natural greenery acts as a canopy over parts of this ride through the narrow, leafy lanes. Moments like these remind me of why we chose to move to Mallorca. My daily commute from Brighton to London seems something long, long ago.
Exploring the Island
If you have time, my advice would always be to explore the island yourself. This is when you’ll find your own hidden treasures and Mallorca has them by the bucket load. Although I often feel I’ve only scratched the surface, we love to share our experiences with our guests.
Get in touch with us to find out about more places that are off the beaten track.